Terada Honke @ Psychic Wines

Written for the Psychic Wines newsletter Feb 23, 2025

This week sake has returned to the shop. Like many of our other favorite producers, Terada Honke rejects the industrial orthodoxy of their peers in favor of creating something reflective of their 350 year history and deeply connected to their local terroir.

When the 23rd-generation Toji (brewmaster) first married into the family, he initially pursued the modern path of optimization and efficiency. But as his health declined and the brewery struggled, he had a vision of a different path: one led by the natural environment instead of manufactured. This epiphany led him to dive deep into the nuances of fermentation, laying the groundwork for what would become an even more radical approach under the current 24th-generation Toji, Masaru Terada.

While I could write at length about their use of mineral-rich water from the sacred Kozaki shrine, or their commitment to regenerative agriculture and preservation of ancient rice varietals, what captivates me most about their practice is their choice to use ambient yeasts and natural fermentation starter methods. In an era where most sake producers opt for yeast strains isolated in a lab and the "sokujo" (fast-brew) method, Terada Honke chooses the path of patience and dedication.

The Kimoto process is a traditional, time-consuming, and labor intensive craft dating back to Japan's Edo period, where brewery workers spend hours using large wooden poles to pound the rice and koji mash to kick start fermentation. Modern research has shown that this laborious pounding isn't technically necessary to make great “natural” sake. While there are other less physical methods that yield similar results, Terada Honke persists with Kimoto. As they pound the starter, Masaru and his team chant meditative songs not only to keep their rhythm, but to create a spiritual connection between themselves and the brewery’s microscopic world that brings their sake to life.

For me, sake made in this style retains some magic from its making and it also tends towards wilder and more memorable flavors. These sakes are rich, savory, occasionally funky and would kick ass paired with some cheese from the shop.

Katori 90 Junmai Kimoto Muroka Nama Genshu

Shizen No Manma Junmai Kimoto Nama Genshu

Daigo No Shizuku Junmai Bodaimoto Muroka Genshu